Harbour Gap: Waves That Spread

An educational simulation game. Predict how sea waves spread through a gap in a harbour wall: the first calm direction, the gap that leaves a moored boat still, the wavelength, the gap that lets the waves fill the harbour, and a calm angle from the waves' speed and period, then sweep the wave gauge.

DiffractionWater waves

HARBOUR GAP

First calm direction

Ready
Enable JavaScript to sweep the wave gauge. The instructions and worked example remain readable.
Waves (bright and dark: high; grey: calm)Wave gauge and boatsYour predictionWall and scale
Wavessin θ = λ ÷ a

Time

0.00 s

t

Wavelength

— m

λ

Gap

— m

a

Gauge angle

— °

θ

Wave height

— %

A

Predict before you start

Type your prediction to set things up. Start stays off until there is an answer.

Predict where the water stays calm.

Mission score—

Every answer must be within 2%: each earns 100 points. Getting it right on the first run adds 50. A run counts as soon as it starts.

✓ Right answer① First try

How to play Harbour Gap

  1. Choose a test and read the wavelength, the gap, or the angle on the card.
  2. Use sin θ = λ ÷ a, with θ measured from straight ahead, and λ = v·T.
  3. Type your prediction and press Start. The wave gauge sweeps from straight ahead round to the wall.
  4. Compare the dashed orange lines with the calm directions, in the harbour and in the graph.

Diffraction

Waves that pass through a gap or round an obstacle don't carry on in a straight beam: they spread out into the space behind. This is diffraction. How much they spread depends on the gap compared with the wavelength. A gap many wavelengths wide lets through a fairly narrow beam; a gap about one wavelength wide spreads the waves out like ripples from a single point. Far behind a gap of width a, the waves are strongest straight ahead and fade to the sides, with calm directions where the waves from different parts of the gap cancel; the first is at sin θ = λ ÷ a. That is why you can hear someone round a corner (sound waves are about as long as a doorway is wide) but not see them (light waves are less than a thousandth of a millimetre long). Harbour engineers use the same rule to decide where boats will lie quietly behind a breakwater.

A focused learning model

The pattern is drawn as it would be far from the gap: wave height |sin β ÷ β| with β = π·a·sin θ ÷ λ, the same at every distance. Waves don't reflect off the wall or lose energy as they spread, and the sea floor is flat. The waves are drawn slowed down to one crest a second. Answers within 2% are right.

Changing language keeps your test, prediction, attempts, and run.