Topic · 27 games

Waves: what travels, and how fast

A wave carries energy and a shape from place to place while the material only moves back and forth. Its frequency, wavelength, and speed are tied together: v = f·λ, T = 1 ÷ f.

Games in this topic

27 games

PLAY NOW · 65

Rope Pulse: What Travels Along a Wave?

A wave carries a shape and energy along, while the rope only moves up and down. Time a pulse, watch a ribbon stay put, read the amplitude, add two pulses that meet, and catch an echo.

What a wave isAmplitude
Play Rope Pulse
Wave speed
v = d ÷ t
Pulses add
y = y₁ + y₂

PLAY NOW · 66

Pebble Ripples: Why Waves Shrink as They Spread

A pebble's ripple shrinks as its ring grows, because the same energy is shared around a longer and longer ring. Find the height far away, the energy per metre, the distance where it drops to 1 cm, and compare a straight wave.

AmplitudeEnergy of a wave
Play Pebble Ripples
Spreading ripple
A ∝ 1 ÷ √r
Energy and height
E ∝ A²

PLAY NOW · 67

Power on a Rope: How Much Energy Does a Wave Carry?

A wave carries energy along a rope to an absorber at the far end. Double the amplitude, double the frequency too, work out the watts, find the swing that keeps the power the same, and try a heavier rope.

AmplitudeWave power
Play Power on a Rope
Power of a wave
P = ½·μ·ω²·A²·v
Squares matter
P ∝ A²·f²

PLAY NOW · 68

Ripple Tank Ruler: Measuring Wavelength

A bar dips into a tank 8 times a second and sends straight ripples along it. Count the gaps between crests, read a photo at half size, find the speed with v = f·λ, slow the ripples over a shallow end, and time them across.

WavelengthMeasuring waves
Play Ripple Tank Ruler
Counting gaps
λ = d ÷ (n − 1)
Wave equation
v = f·λ

PLAY NOW · 69

Wave Machine: Wavelength, Frequency, and Speed

A motor shakes one end of a rope and fills it with waves. Count them to find the wavelength, link it to the frequency with v = f·λ, shake faster, time the period at a bead, and test a bigger amplitude.

WavelengthFrequency and period
Play Wave Machine
Wave equation
v = f·λ
Period
T = 1 ÷ f

PLAY NOW · 70

String Tuner: Frequency and Pitch

A string's note is its frequency, f = v ÷ (2·L). Find the note of a guitar string, halve it for an octave, press it to play another note, tighten it, and time one vibration, with a tuner to check.

FrequencySound and pitch
Play String Tuner
String frequency
f = v ÷ (2·L)
Octave
L ÷ 2 → 2·f

PLAY NOW · 71

Strobe Freeze: Catching a Frequency with Flashes

A strobe lights a moving wave for an instant, again and again. Flash once per cycle and it freezes; a little off and it creeps at f − f_s. Freeze a wave, read its creep, measure a frequency, stop a wheel, and find a speed.

FrequencyStrobe effect
Play Strobe Freeze
Seen frequency
f_seen = f − f_s
Frozen by flashes
f_s = f

PLAY NOW · 72

Surfer's Wait: The Period of a Wave

A surfer waiting in one place rises on every crest that passes, once every period T = λ ÷ v. Time the wait, count waves a minute, find the swell's speed and spacing, and turn the period into a frequency.

PeriodOcean waves
Play Surfer's Wait
Period
T = λ ÷ v
Frequency
f = 1 ÷ T

PLAY NOW · 73

Tide Clock: The Period of the Tides

The sea at a harbour rises and falls with a period of about 12 h 25 min. Time four tides, find the low tide, count highs in a day, see why high tide comes 50 minutes later each day, and find the tide's wavelength.

PeriodTides
Play Tide Clock
Period
T = 12 h 25 min
Wavelength
λ = v·T

PLAY NOW · 74

Rope Tension Lab: How Fast a Wave Runs on a Rope

A pulse on a tight rope runs at v = √(F ÷ μ): faster with more tension, slower on a heavier rope. Find a pulse's speed, see why four times the tension only doubles it, find the tension a speed needs, and time a pulse across a rope.

Wave speedRopes
Play Rope Tension Lab
Speed
v = √(F ÷ μ)
Tension
F = μ·v²

PLAY NOW · 75

Tsunami Race: How Depth Sets a Wave's Speed

A tsunami is so long that the whole depth of the sea moves with it, and its speed is v = √(g·h). Find its speed over a deep ocean, turn it into km/h, time a 2000 km crossing, see it slow near the shore, and read the depth from a speed.

Wave speedTsunamis
Play Tsunami Race
Speed
v = √(g·h)
Depth
h = v² ÷ g

PLAY NOW · 76

Slinky Lab: Transverse and Longitudinal Waves

Shake a slinky side to side and each coil moves across it: a transverse wave. Push and pull it and each coil moves along it, bunching into compressions: a longitudinal wave. Find the angle of a coil's motion, the spacing of compressions, and their speed.

Transverse and longitudinalSlinky
Play Slinky Lab
Wave speed
v = f·λ
Compressions
λ = v ÷ f

PLAY NOW · 77

Earthquake P and S: Two Kinds of Seismic Wave

An earthquake sends a fast longitudinal P wave and a slower transverse S wave. The gap between them tells a station how far away the quake was. Find that distance, the arrival times, the S wave's shake, and its speed.

Transverse and longitudinalEarthquakes
Play Earthquake P and S
Distance
d = Δt ÷ (1/v_S − 1/v_P)
Arrival gap
Δt = d ÷ v_S − d ÷ v_P

PLAY NOW · 78

Echo Sounder: Distances from Echoes

An echo is sound that bounced back, so it travels the distance twice: d = v·t ÷ 2. Sound the sea floor with sonar, find a bat's moth, time a cliff's echo, measure the speed of sound in sea water, and find a shoal of fish.

ReflectionSonar and echoes
Play Echo Sounder
Distance
d = v·t ÷ 2
Echo time
t = 2d ÷ v

PLAY NOW · 79

Bank Shot Ripples: How Waves Reflect

A ripple leaves a wall at the same angle it arrived. A pulse on a rope comes back upside down from a clamped end and upright from a free end. Find the angle out, aim a bank shot, predict each pulse's way up, and time a return trip.

ReflectionRipples and ropes
Play Bank Shot Ripples
Angle out
θ_out = θ_in
Fixed end
y_back = −y

PLAY NOW · 80

Shallow Beach: Waves That Bend

Waves slow down in shallow water. Their frequency stays the same, so their wavelength shrinks, and if they arrive at an angle they bend: refraction. Find the new wavelength, the frequency, the angle, the speed, and the depth over a sandbank.

RefractionSea waves
Play Shallow Beach
Wavelength
λ₂ = λ₁·v₂ ÷ v₁
Snell's law
sin θ₁ ÷ sin θ₂ = v₁ ÷ v₂

PLAY NOW · 81

Spearfishing: Light That Bends in Water

Light is slower in water, so it bends as it crosses the surface: n₁·sin θ₁ = n₂·sin θ₂. A fish looks shallower than it is. Find a fish's real depth, a laser's angle in water, where to aim a spear, a liquid's index, and the critical angle.

RefractionLight
Play Spearfishing
Snell's law
n₁·sin θ₁ = n₂·sin θ₂
Real depth
d = n·d_seen

PLAY NOW · 82

Two Speakers: Loud and Quiet Spots

Two speakers playing the same note fill a room with loud and quiet spots. It is quiet where one is half a wave farther than the other: Δd = (n + ½)·λ. Find quiet and loud spots, a frequency, a wavelength, and what a reversed speaker does.

InterferenceSound
Play Two Speakers
Quiet spots
Δd = (n + ½)·λ
Loud spots
Δd = n·λ

PLAY NOW · 83

Beat Tuner: Notes That Wobble

Two notes close in pitch drift in and out of step, so the sound swells and fades |f₁ − f₂| times a second. Tuners listen for the beats to slow and stop. Find a beat rate, a retuning, the time between beats, sharp or flat, and a pitch gap.

BeatsSound
Play Beat Tuner
Beat frequency
f_b = |f₁ − f₂|
Time between beats
T_b = 1 ÷ f_b

PLAY NOW · 84

Harbour Gap: Waves That Spread

Waves spread out after passing a gap, most when the gap is about one wavelength. Far behind it, the first calm direction is sin θ = λ ÷ a. Find calm directions, the gap that calms a boat, a wavelength, and when waves fill the whole harbour.

DiffractionWater waves
Play Harbour Gap
First calm direction
sin θ = λ ÷ a
Wavelength
λ = v·T

PLAY NOW · 85

Laser Slit: Light That Spreads

Light through a narrow slit spreads into a bright band with dark bands either side. The first dark band is y = λ·L ÷ a from the centre. Find a dark band, the central band's width, a slit's width, a laser's wavelength, and the second dark band.

DiffractionLight
Play Laser Slit
First dark band
y = λ·L ÷ a
Central band
w = 2·λ·L ÷ a

PLAY NOW · 86

Ambulance Pass-by: The Siren's Changing Pitch

A moving siren squeezes its sound waves together ahead and stretches them behind, so you hear it higher as it comes and lower as it goes: f' = f·v ÷ (v ∓ v_s). Find the pitch coming and going, an ambulance's speed, a siren's note, and an octave.

Doppler effectSound
Play Ambulance Pass-by
Coming towards you
f' = f·v ÷ (v − v_s)
Going away
f' = f·v ÷ (v + v_s)

PLAY NOW · 87

Paddling Duck: Ripples Ahead and Behind

Each paddle sends out a ring from where the duck is, so the rings crowd together ahead and spread out behind: λ' = (v ∓ v_s) ÷ f. Faster than its ripples, the duck makes a V-shaped bow wave. Find spacings, a speed, a paddling rate, and a bow wave's angle.

Doppler effectWater waves
Play Paddling Duck
Ripple spacing
λ' = (v ∓ v_s) ÷ f
Bow wave
sin θ = v ÷ v_s

PLAY NOW · 88

Decibel Meter: How Loud Is Loud?

Decibels count powers of ten: L = 10·log(I ÷ I₀), so every 10 dB is ten times the intensity, and twice as far away is about 6 dB quieter. Find the level of ten speakers, the drop with distance, an intensity ratio, a level, and a distance.

SoundDecibels
Play Decibel Meter
Sound level
L = 10·log(I ÷ I₀)
Distance
I ∝ 1 ÷ r²

PLAY NOW · 89

Bottle Flute: Notes from Air and Water

A bottle is a pipe closed at one end: its air column holds a quarter of a wave, so f = v ÷ 4L. Pour in water and the column shortens, so the pitch rises. Find a bottle's note, the note after pouring, a column length, how much to pour, and the next note up.

SoundResonance
Play Bottle Flute
Closed pipe
f = v ÷ 4L
Higher notes
f_n = n·v ÷ 4L

PLAY NOW · 90

Antenna Workshop: How Long Is a Radio Wave?

Radio, Wi-Fi, and microwaves are waves that travel at 3 × 10⁸ m/s. Use λ = c ÷ f to find their wavelengths, size a quarter-wave antenna, space a microwave oven's hot spots, and see why AM masts are so tall.

WavelengthRadio waves
Play Antenna Workshop
Wavelength
λ = c ÷ f
Quarter-wave antenna
L = λ ÷ 4

PLAY NOW · 91

Sound in Slow Motion: A Wave You Can Hear

Sound is a wave of squeezes in the air, travelling at 340 m/s. Slow a note down to see its wavelength and period, then use the speed of sound to find a storm from its thunder and a cliff from its echo.

Sound wavesWavelength and period
Play Sound in Slow Motion
Wavelength
λ = v ÷ f
Distance
d = v·t

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